Lands End 2 John O’Groats

This one started, (as all seem to),with a conversation over a coffee / in the pub when Myra decided she needed to do something to celebrate her 50th and pedalling the length of the UK was the only way to do it. Upside being that this time we were going to go as part of a supported group and needed to carry no luggage. ie somewhat differently from North Coast 500 which we had competed 3 years earlier.

Given the state of the world and the arrival of Covid it was fortuitous in a weird kind of way that the 1st outing resulted in too close an encounter with a dog at the end of what had been a fun decent ride, (after I insisted on stopping for coffee en route home), resulting in my 1st Ambulance ride (where I was the patient) to the John Radcliffe in Oxford. As a consequence of both the dog incident and Covid, our 2nd training session was many, many months later… I love this Garmin map as for me, it marks a starting point in the journey which required much mental and physical effort. A bit like starting subterranean before getting back to ground level and then moving on upwards.

Here we go……

So…the vital statistics of LEJOG are as follows:

Start Day minus 2

Slightly nervous this evening having delivered my bike to Myra’s ready to go in the van. 2 spare inner tubes, 2 carefully selected water bottles, bike has been serviced, my set up has been measured & angles adjusted, I have new seat, brake pads, (note to self, dont brake to hard), and chain. Rucksack packed & labelled and all that remains is for me to determine which day sack I will take & wonder if I really do have everything, – my rucksack contents have been carefully planned for days and items moved and reprioritised, then all classified, rolled up & put into their own plastic bag dependant upon purpose. I haven’t included a long sleeve for Scotland and the long range looks around 12 degrees – arm warmers, gilet, vest and thin waterproof plus full on waterproof if I need it will have to do…..I am being picked up at 7.15 to head to Reading station for the 8.30 to Penzance… – glass of Prosecco then tonight to ease the nerves…….

Start Day minus 1

The highlight of today was arriving in Penzance and meeting the ride team. 19 of us in total arrived at the briefing a mix of ages and nationalities including 5 Australians (3 Melbourne & 2 from NSW), who had flown over specifically for the purpose. Whilst some were undoubtedly hardened tour riders, many were not and it was slightly gratifying to find that there are definitely a range of ages. With the focus on “enjoying yourself” (instruction from our guides and organisers) and having eaten well, we headed off for a sensible nights rest before the big one…..A 7 am breakfast then lift to Lands End which is where it all begins……

Day 1

Lands End to St Austell – 96k, 1,303m ascent

Day one had an amazing start. A taxi to Lands End, then whilst admiring the beautiful scenery and going for the obligatory team photo, I firstly met our brilliantly motivational spin instructor Caroline from the local gym and then heard a “Miss Cornell” , to find one of my A level students and his family staying in the Lands End Hotel. Whilst Caroline was riding the route but with another company, the student concerned was in his words “utterly stunned” to see me and was off to the Scilly Isles with his family. It went both ways Oscar!

The 19 riders lined up outside the Lands End Hotel for the obligatory group photo before peeling off and departing one by one. The structure of they was such that we had a mid morning “brew stop”, then lunch at a pub / restaurant and then given the temperature an afternoon water stop before cycling on the last leg of each day. Today as a treat and given the lateness of our street with photos etc the “brew stop” was only 12 miles in, just beyond Penzance. Tea , coffee and an abundance of snacks were on offer and already very welcome. From there we headed off and continued across country to our lunch stop, in a tea room that was just one mile before the King Harry Ferry.  The countryside was fantastic, the hills were both dramatic and sudden, and the temperature increasing as the day wore on. Whilst the warmth was welcome, the weather itself was the polar opposite of when we had come down mid June to do a 2 day check out of the route. The the weather had ben windy (40 mph gusts) and lashing rain resulting in debris across the roses, 2 very wet riders and some extreme flooding in places. Whilst there is no doubt that the 2 day check out of location and route had been worthwhile in that it gives a clear idea of the severity of the climbs along with gradient and duration, the heat was starting to become more intense and was forecast to become much more so as the week went on, making for some uncomfortable riding over midday.

Lunch was very fine – a garden in beautiful countryside with a range of sandwiches, pasta and cake – fuelling us for the journey down to the ferry and on to the night accommodation. The ferry itself crosses the Carrick Roads reach of the estuary of the River Fal. However inevitably having gone downhill to the ferry the climb on the far side was both sudden and steep. The lanes were “agricultural” in places and dappled shade led to some very difficult handling situations. One such difficult situation heading downhill resulted in my bouncing over a hole in the road, – not so fortunate for Myra who went down and ended up with a. double puncture. Our brilliant tour guide Mick looked after us and helped with the repair. Really unusual for 2 to go at the same time when up to full pressure, – predictably we ended up changing tyres in a country lane with high hedges and low airflow for some 45 mins, replacing the inner tubes and clearing flint out of the tyres. By this time it was also evident there was a problem with Myra’s new cassette which had been fitted prior to leaving home giving 2 extra granny gears (sorry grannies!). The two issues combined to give a tough last 15 miles up and into St Austell. To compound matters further the accommodation for the evening was on top of a hill at the end of a steep 2k climb..BUT, it had a restaurant on site and our guides were good enough to help resolve the cassette issue, in return for which apparently the payment was beer. If only life was that easy overall! Day one was tough, day 2 is definitely harder and longer, assuming we make it to the end of day 4 we will be doing my favourite strategy and riding ourselves fit! (Myra!)

Day 2

St Austell to Moretonhampstead – 111k 1686m ascent

Today was brutal, although in fairness we always know it would be! We left St Austell by 7.30 to ensure we got away whilst the roads were clear and got up the first of 11 significant climbs before the traffic and sun became more intense. When we did our 2 day familiarisation in mid June this hill had been awash with rain, we had been drenched and there had a mini ford form under the railway bridge at the base of the hill. How different it was 6 weeks later. Once up the first significant climb we were out in open country with the focus clearly on getting to the brew stop at Looe before it got too hot. From our previous trip both Myra and I knew that the climb up out of Looe town was less than pleasant with cars and bikes sharing a busy main road. After a swift stock up of snacks the obligatory brew, we headed off , this time joined by 3 of the Australians, all of us travelling around the same speed. Winding up through the trees was a welcome relief and it was when we reached the top we turned off and headed across country. The views were stunning and the sky was clear blue.Lunch was to be at Plymouth however in order to get to this we had to take another ferry which would land us in the middle of Plymouth harbour. The trip across offered some great sights of the old naval buildings , now either smart apartments or equally smart shops.

Lunch was magnificent, in a cafe on the harbours edge, however conscious there were many k’s to do we managed around 40 mins for lunch and then headed out of town on the only route that was not dual carriageway ie a disused railway track that eventually having would its way up would take us to the entrance to Dartmoor national Park where the hard work would begin. The track was beautiful and very like some French discussed railway tracks along the had cycled recently , it also ran for @9 miles through cuttings and past old bridges and railway paraphernalia that had clearly been left behind. The stand out part of this ride (aside from he shade) was the .5 k railway tunnel through which we got to cycle – beautifully cool and no bats, unlike the one we had cycled in France.

Abruptly at the end of this track we hit the entrance to the national park going through a couple of wooden gates and over a cattle grid. The weather was scorching hot and we were now on the first of many climbs. The heather and gorse looked amazing, sadly given the heat there was no time to stop and photograph the view, but instead to follow the long and winding strip of tarmac. Whilst it would have been great to have taken maximum advantage of the downs, (of which there were not many), there were an abundance of sheep, rams, ponies and horses and when heading downhill, you are very conscious that it is all to was to hit one of these beauties. Remembering a childhood story where a fried once planted himself and his motorbike in the back of a horse (not funny but we thought so at the time) , downhill was not taken at maximum speed!

Sensibly we had an extra afternoon break put in place once we had climbed up onto the plateau, horses and ponies were though equally interested in our food and took some persuading that their grass was actually better than jelly babies and cake!

It was with some reluctance we all headed off from our water stop to make the final 17 miles to our destination. The road was exposed and very hot. We wound on and up and down and then endlessly onwards it seemed until at last our destination village was in sight. It was with extremely tired legs that we eventually rolled into town at 5.40 got changed and made it to dinner. Judging by the speed with which people were able to move, tomorrows start will a slow one, but an 80 mile day awaits after what will hopefully be a substantial breakfast. The big issue in all of this given the heat is managing to keep on top of dehydration and ensuring that you are eating enough. If my Garmin is anywhere near accurate I need to consume a further 2k calories on top of the amount needed to function. With that happy thought in mind a late evening post supper snack is entirely justified.

Day 3

Moretonhampstead to Wookey Hole 135k 1125m ascent

Day 2 across Dartmoor was finished riding alone, given most of us were just digging in to get the ride done. Today took that onto a different level, mainly due to the increasing temperature combined with two of the seven Garmin defined climbs containing elects that were at 16% . Challenging! However the mood was good the group overall were in fine spirits (despite being one down today) and having got a decent start we rode on 20 miles to what has become a legendary and much needed “brew stop”. Today we were routed out from Morehampstead and into Exeter city centre where the first of our Garmin mis reads occurred. After a quick trip around the houses (literally) and a very near accident where Myra almost rode over a chain in a carpark (OK it was camouflaged to be the same colour as the tarmac), Myra and I found ourselves back on track and riding with 2 other Australians from NSW who were surprised to see us pop out of an alley in front of them. As ever Garmin decided the sudden breaking was an accident on Myra’s part and set about notifying her nearest and dearest. Carrying on it was all about winding and climbing but looking out across rolling fields as we went through. Lunch was preceded (as we had been warned) by a very tough hill, again full of 16%. The good news was that we did this before our lunch and not after as some other LEJOG groups were doing. although there has always been a breakaway group, mainly boys Im afraid, it was noticeable that there was more intermingling of personal today as different people and their riding highs and riding lows.

After lunch we headed up a small climb before starting to descend to the summerset levels accompanied by much peat digging. Winding into Glastonbury was an experience for those of us who have not been there previously. There was a great view of Glastonbury Tor as we came into town which one of the group decided to go explore – paying homage to King Arthur!

Getting out of Glastonbury and onto Wells our final destination was less than pleasant. A busy dual carriageway leading down to a very busy roundabout leading onto an equally busy A road across which we had to make a right turn. It was after the turn off we encountered our last hill – and at a time when everyone was feeling the pain. 100k is fine, 120k is fine but there was a general consensus that 135 in heat was pushing it!

However to lift the spirits we arrived in Wells to fine views of the cathedral which we managed the obligatory group line up. From here it was onto Wookey Hole, our final destination for the night. There is no doubt there are some very tired legs and there is no doubt that tomorrow is another “big” day as we head from Wookey hole up to Hereford across the Severn bridge. However I have always said you can ride yourself fit…you just start at about 80% and then build – story of my training life…”don’t peak too early!”

Day 4

Wookey Hole to Hereford 133k, 1517m ascent

Today started badly. Whether it was yesterdays heat or the fish course I had selected for dinner, whatever the issue, I had been up for most of the night being very sick. The end result was that I found myself with a decent ride to do on very little sleep and very little (if any) food. I had reviewed options in my mind, but then if you don’t do the miles you don’t complete the journey, – and I am absolutely sure I won’t be doing this again.

The start of the ride took us up out of Wookey Hole, not anywhere that will feature on my “must return to” list, and wound over towards Cheddar George. Having never been before and not being afraid to stop to preserve my legs and ensure I got to the end of the day most riders including me were keen to stop to admire the view. One of our 2 tour leaders Mick, had placed himself at a mid way point up the George and was capturing photos of each of us as we slowly wound our way up the gorge  admiring the rock formations, the goats and flora and fauna.

Heading out of gorge our direction of travel was Bristol. Having never been here before the parks around Clifton and the general ambience of the place was fantastic – really good to cycle through. We had cleared the Clifton suspension bridge en route and were heading in the direction of the older Severn bridge. What a fantastic experience cycling over this, with great views up and down the severn estuary. However, we were slightly confused to meet a motor cyclist who had chosen ride his bike over on the cycling lane wearing only his boxer shorts, shortly followed by someone on a scooter.

Lunch was just beyond Tintern Abbey and a gorgeous location – also very much needed as today was a long day to the brew stop (30 miles in) then lunch (60 miles in) then onto Hereford (82 miles out). Soup and a sandwich were very welcome – especially as I had just moved onto my first solid since “last nights episode!”

From here it was out to Worcester and then on up to Hereford. By this time it was late afternoon, the roads were hot and we were trying to push on slowly, given my less than perfect energy levels. The river at Monmouth and Hereford looked fabulous if a bit low, bringing back many memories of Regatta weekends from our youth (Worcester, Monmouth & Hereford). The last few miles seemed to take and age..However, we arrived at out hotel where we were all staying in rooms located outside, sadly no aircon, but some very comfortable grass located outside that allowed me to lay out exactly as I needed to…..

Day 5

Hereford to Shrewsbury 110k , 1111m of ascent

Today was billed as an “easy day” with only 5 listed Garmin climbs, (we are still not sure what denotes a Garmin climb given that there were definitely many others along the way), but some very beautiful winding country lanes taking us up the borders north of Hereford. Today was markedly hotter than yesterday meaning that we all needed to get away early after breakfast to enjoy riding before the heat of the day really set in. The “brew stop” was 32k in and the temperature was still relatively fresh enough to make stopping and being outside pleasurable. From thereon in we would through country lanes on to our lunch stop a further 30k on at Clun.

Given the heat which was now mounting fast, coming out of lunch, there was one thought on our mind and that was to get to Shrewsbury directly if possible and ideally via an ice cream shop. We headed down through beautiful winding valleys where there seemed to be an abundance of houses but no shops, (but did enable a top speed for the day of 57k), we were forced to head into a Texaco station some 8 miles outside of town, which neatly afforded air con. Having stood inside to take our body temperature down whilst buying ice lollies, then of course as we emerged dealing with the shock of the heat, there was a need to get back on the bike and generate a small breeze as we cycled into town. . No frills and no pretty routes just get there. 

Having never been to Shrewsbury before it was certainly busy and impactful on arrival with a flower festival in full swing. The river looking fantastic as it flowed through the middle of town and just as at home, boys dropping off the foot bridge into the river. We managed to had over the pedestrian bridge and find our way to the Premier Inn (with air con of sorts), and neatly located by the river.

There were some very tired and hot bodies on arriving in town. No doubt aches and pains are emerging so now we are (all) trying to keep on top of it. So..it was time to stretch , get laundry done and head out for food and get some rest.

On the upside , apparently it is 12 degrees in north Scotland where we are heading next week… 🙂

Day 6

Shrewsbury to Leigh – 128k, 526m of ascent

Today was very much a transition day, taking us from the beautiful town of Shrewsbury up to Leigh, neatly skirted the major conurbations en route.

Today was about trains, speed and learnings. This morning after “brew break” we hopped on the back of a train being “driven” by one of the boys. End result 14 of us were neatly snaking round some relatively flat lanes at a decent speed and whilst an amazing experience, on the roads we were travelling on the was way too many for safety and we were keen not to upset too many working farmers and locals. Just as we thought we would drop off, one of the boys touched a brake. Fortunately no pile up but definitely time for the girls to do their own thing. We then spent the remainder of the day ie up to lunch and all afternoon cycling with our 3 Aussie friends, Leonie, Liz and Karen, resulting in much fun, a few near misses (for which we blame garmin) but decent speeds over gently undulating territory, allowing us to make something of a day where not too much was going on.

Great morning coffee break after 20 miles in the village of Hammer

Lunch stop was at Meadow Lea Farm Shop and was one of the best lunches so far. Great choice of set options and all fantastically and efficiently served. Additionally there was a great choice of toys for us to play with on arrival…. – some people never grow up!

Afternoon tea stop was at the very beautiful village of Great Budworth.

The final leg of our journey today was not entirely straightforward but we focussed on holding the girls train together, not overlapping back wheels whilst staying on the wheel….(Pete, one of our two guides for this trip, had given a very good demonstration of how to ride as a train over dinner earlier in the week, utilising sachets of Ketchup and Brown Sauce!). Mick who was cycling with us as on the ground support, guided us through the last 15k, -including cycle paths (without a ramp onto them) and assorted main road junctions where traffic was busy routing to Chester, Warrington, Manchester or Liverpool and was not always as impressed as it might be to see a train of 5 ladies bikes… until at last we arrived at the hotel. For that Mick had the pleasure of having his photo taken with the girls group. The camaraderie worked really well and we all had a great day “in transition”, in addition to riding at speed as a unit, ably led by Myra this afternoon…who very much enjoyed the experience although she will undoubtedly tell me otherwise over our evening pint!

So..Learnings to date in order: 1. Always have your recovery drink first else it impedes your ability to make rationale decisions. 2. Stretch for 15 mins after you have hit your accommodation, elevate your legs for 5 mins (courtesy of Vix our Yoga coach but it works). 3. Do your washing early, it then stands the best possible chance of drying in time for tomorrow. 4. Always pre plan what time you eat and get refuelled…. 5. Then do your blog. 6. 7 – 8 hours sleep are essential!

Day 7

Leigh to Carnforth 112km, 1425m ascent

Today was brutal. It was hot, (whoever forecast lower temperatures north of Manchester was utterly wrong), and involved some tough climbs. We started early leaving Leigh after what can only be described as a difficult nights rest. The aircon in our room was not working which had made it difficult to sleep. Having tried the floor (lowest level with cooler air), and given up on that, it was about making the right choices at breakfast to ensure we had enough energy for the day without overloading. So, low GI. Having done the best job we could we set off with a plan to keep the pace low and hopefully experience some cooler air once we got out of the cities. The brilliant August weather ensured the fields glistened and it was impossible not to feel uplifted by the experience of space and colour. We made good progress back in our cycling 5 of yesterday, namely Myra myself, Leonie , Karen and Liz, having a great “brew brake” in the woods, some 26k out, before heading down and through the outskirts of Blackburn on the way back up into the countryside, through the beautiful village of Whalley.

The first notable area we hit today was The Forrest of Bowland where we went up to the Trig Point to admire the view. Utterly clear and utterly breathtaking.

From here we headed on a long ride to lunchtime taking us to some 73k out from the mornings start. Although there were only 8 garmin climbs on the route today the degrees of complexity and difficulty on certain aspects of each, combined with he heat made for challenging times . The heat was building and it was far from easy. However we did make it slightly harder for ourselves by taking the wrong route out of our lunch break, resulting in us tackling successfully a tough and steep climb out of the valley. However, 2k up we realised we had wrong routed and had to sadly turn round and go back before taking a different route . Very frustrating!

The afternoons riding was long and hot but great views out to the lakes as we headed across impressive bare landscapes littered with cattlegrids. After a “stare out” with a herd of cows who seemed to think they owned the pathway and close miss with a goat, who seemed to think Karens floral top was an edible flower basket, we eventually coming cross this little treasure.

The rest of the day is to be added…..suffice to say, long hard and very tiring.

The reminder of the afternoon is now etched permanently in my mind. We spent some time climbing up to the half way point in a valley where the sun was relentless, still within the scope of the Forrest of Bowland (AONB). From there we moved across flat open countryside, peppered with cattlegrids, sheep and cows until reaching a lay-by at the Cross of Greet (@15 miles out of Carnforth) before which we began our descent to our hotel. Whilst having a swift water break here before starting ur descent (it was a running battle to keep hydrated throughout), we were passed by a special motorcycle which then pulled in at the lay-by opposite. The gentleman concerned was riding a Matchless 500, (single cylinder), 1958. A real character, (Ron?) , we had a quick chat and he kindly allowed me to take a photo once I had dutifully admired the bike.

From here it was billed as “downhill all the way”. Not so. Sure there were opportunities to go fast, but the road surface did not allow for full out speedy descents, so being cautiously optimistic we headed down as fast as possible, stopping at Wray, some 10 miles further on for afternoon refreshments (ice cream) , before heading on to Cartnforth. The roads got much busier as got closer and crossing a bridge some 3 miles out where a tractor was doing its best to get on with getting to the fields, people were queuing to get into the river and cars and parked in all d directions, 2 of our team were so very hot they took their bikes and went to lay in the river for a cool off. Respect! Meantime we headed to the hotel which was fantastic, and very much cycling focussed, feeling dirty, hot and tired and as if we had had too long day in the saddle.

Day 8

Carnforth to Gretna – 140km, 1679m ascent

Today was always billed as a big day – it did not disappoint. 10 climbs throughout with the last 2 being an order of magnitude bigger and longer than all others completed to date but the upside being that most of the last 25k were downhill.

We started on the west coastal Carnforth (The Royal Station Hotel for cycling enthusiasts is very worth visiting), then wound back up from the coast into the very beautiful surrounding countryside heading onto the Cumbria cycleway. after @9k we cycled through the very beautiful Dallam Tower Estate. Breathtaking architecture and river views.

From here we moved out via some very fine bike tracks but then onto the main road, eventually arriving at Windermere on a Sunday in august where we had our morning brew stop, just ahead of moving into the town centre itself. You could tell it ws not going to be easy by the level of fill in the car park. So after taking some sensible nutrition on board we headed out in smaller groups to do careful battle with population. The town centre itself was mobbed, however working as a unit of 5 we did manage to stay upright and avoid both pedestrians and frustrated car drivers. From windermere our route took us via a well thought out balance of cycle routes (populated equally by humans), and main road / country lanes to beautiful Bowness and the heart of the Lake District National Park.

There is no doubt the views were magnificent – the gradients on the climbs all varied, wish certain areas up at 14+%, whilst other areas were simply 3 -5%, however each climb was over a decent distance, allowing time to set into rhythm and focus. Both Myra and I found ourselves doing exactly what we had done previously in Scotland on the North Coast 500 , namely counting strokes or revolutions and focusing on either leg on a push / pull then linking this to breathing to really enable us to hold together and to get up the ascents. some 7 or 8 miles out from lunch the route passed by Castlerigg Stone Circle, which we had dutifully promised to Pete our guide we would stop and admire. It did not disappoint, resembling the stone cures from Orkney as well as our own Stonehenge!

By the time we arrived at lunch, people were tired and despite being focussed and only allowing ourselves 20 mins for our morning stop, time was getting on mainly due to the size of the climbs and the heat.

After lunch we split into smaller groups and carried purposefully on, the longer you stop, sit around beyond who is efficient and needed the more tired you become. Onward and upward, – literally! The climbs after lunch were more severe and took us right up into the cumbrian countryside, affording great views as far as the eye could see , on the east it was possible to see out to the coast.

The two climbs were magnificent and extremely challenging, however the views were worth every moment of pain on the way up. However what was evident from the light is that the weather was beginning to change, as evidenced by the light rain shower that fell on us when we arrived at our afternoon tea stop at Dalston.

From here it was a steady downhill to Gretna, our final destination for the night. We were tired, very tired, but delighted to have made it so far and in honesty, felt a small sense of celebration as a result. (Code for pint of tenants and pint of cider). We took one last photo as we headed into Scotland which will sign off this post. Tomorrow rain is forecast….. and we have a 77 mile route but less climb. The adventure of climbing up the dual carriageway embankment with our bikes in hand will have to wait…..

Day 9

Gretna to Larkhall – 125km, 926m ascent

Apparently last night there was thunder and lightening…. – we must have crossed the boarder. Waking up there was definitely water on the road and after some debate among the whole group about kit, (always good conversation to have and one we have not had to bother ourselves with too much to date), we headed out. After yesterdays hard climbing day today should have been a moderate to easy run out. However, the general road conditions and the weather combined to make it less than straightforward. The rural lanes were heavily damaged in places meaning much more work was required to push on, plus of course, the traffic was trying to deal with the rain in just the same way we were.

However, there were some good sights on the way through, – after all we were in Scotland. The beautiful purple heathers clearly standing out in the rain and mist:

Additionally, on the way to lunch we passed through Moffat, which bills itself as “The Dark Sky Town” – given the weather conditions it very much lived up to its name.

The remainder of the day was working to deal with traffic, rain and target the best arrival time at our hotel possible to allow us to get warm, stretch and get fed. Key learnings: even in rain you need to keep hydrated and eat sensibly.

Looking forward to tomorrow, Larkhall to Tyndrum over 80 miles via Glasgow.

Day 10

Larkhall to Tyndrum – 127km, 602m ascent

Opening the curtains this morning it was as expected. grey and raining, – a waterproofs day. The saving grace was that for much of the day we were going to be on cycle paths of varying quality as we headed to Glasgow on and up to Loch Lomond and then winding alongside the Lock on and up to Tyndrum.

The cycle path to Glasgow was of good quality although had to be used in single file for much of the way. It was also well signed which helped immensely as we passed through the suburbs in heavy rain. Cycling in full waterproofs brought back (happy) memories of cycling the North Coast 500 some 4 years previous. Taking the route out of Glasgow and along the Clyde the amount of regeneration is very impressive and there are some great buildings to be viewed even in the mist and fog. As we continued out of town past the old shipbuilding yards we were moved onto an old rail track which afforded great views of the industrial units the have now replaced the ships although some fantastic pieces of architecture still remain…..The whole vibe of the town is very modern and certainly cyclists and pedestrians are well provided for with safe routes and clear crossings.

From Glasgow we wound our way out of town and onto the beginning of Loch Lomond. Magically as we arrived at the end of the loch the weather began to improve, giving some great views up the lake from the weir at the Glasgow end of the Loch. Loch Lomond Rowing club was just opposite in a neat container on the edge of loch – at least it was there!

We rode along the western side of the Loch (via lunch). It was another brutal day for punctures – although amazingly both Myra and I got away without any, whereas the boys seemed to be collecting them! Whilst having lunch Myra had been contacted by her brother and father who had planned to come drive across from Saltcoats, we arranged to meet them part way up the Lock for a 10 minute chat.

Post meet up we had two hard long climbs to make as we headed off up the glen to Tyndrum. The road whilst good in places was missing surface tarmac in patches and narrowed as we would further up the glen. The wind also managed to turn around to a head wind, (isn’t it always), making the last 3 miles brutal and tough going. Sense of humour had been left down in the glen! However, it was with relief we made it to the overnight accommodation. First mission was to clean the bikes which now had so much grit and dirt in them it was making it extremely tough to change gear, and then to check tyres and brakes. As ever bikes got the priority hose down and humans the second! On arriving in our room our normal process of recovery drink went out the window. We were cold and wet and grumpy, so opted for our preferred Scottish beverages….

Day 11

Tyndrum to Fort Augustus – 130km, 814 m of ascent

We left Tyndrum after a rather bizarre stay in a rather bizarre location and cycled over Rannoch Moor to a view point some 11 miles out. Already the countryside was opening up and already the midges were swarming at those lucky human specimens they had specially selected. The view point across the valley was magnificent, as indeed were many of the other views up and coming. Our target for the morning was Glencoe.

The morning had started as a relatively calm day. However being in the middle of nowhere this was made worse by the wind blowing across the open valleys. as we started to climb Glencoe began to open up in from of us. What an amazing sight. the skies brightened , as did our moods , despite the volume of traffic all keen to come and see such magnificent glacial valleys. For many of us today was to be one of the highlights of the trip, – aside from finishing it! Descending into Glencoe is a single track and on a bike it is possible to gain some real momentum to add to the exhilaration at 49.1 km/ph. Again – our breath was taken away by the views on offer, – so much more to see than in a car…

We stopped for our morning brew break in Glencoe, Tunnocks Tea cakes, Shortbread and Iron Bru were the order of the day and worked well to sustain the troops. From Glencoe we moved on fast as down hill predominantly to Loch Lynnie where we were lunching at the Caledonian Hotel. It was an exhilarating ride (again) and a great lunch overlooking a very beautiful Loch and just a stones throw from Fort William. It was to Fort William we headed after lunch to firstly raid the local drugstore for all things necessary after 10 days on a bike. (More details available on request but not for the faint hearted!). From here a group of us had elected to try out a route detour, it going 10 miles on the Caledonian Canal towpath (perfectly laid thank to the Scottish Gov), then heading back onto the roads to take us to Fort Augustus.

Neptunes Staircase for us marked the start of the Caledonian Canal.  Built by Thomas Telford between 1803 and 1822, it is the longest staircase lock in Britain, now hydraulic but originally hand powered , which must have taken some time. We were with 3 of our Australian friends for this 10 mile stint, but for all of us it was amazing to watch a very large tourist boat squeeze its way carefully through the lock.

From here we set off along the canal. The towpath was of a high quality and made cycling easy, whilst the canal itself was beautiful both in the construction, (sympathetic to its surroundings), and in the environment which it ran through. It certainly made a change from being on the road.

After 10 miles we turned off to rejoin the original cycle route and after a cheeky couple of rather steep but relatively short non-gamin hills, made it to the afternoon tea stop at The Commando Memorial at Lochaber, which sits near a very moving memorial garden which I had visited once previously when in the area. The memorial itself is dedicated to the men of the original British Commando Forces killed during World War II. Situated around a mile from Spean Bridge, it overlooks the training areas of the Commando Training Depot (est in 1942) at Achnacarry Castle. The tea stop was very welcome and whilst there we encountered 3 cyclists who were doing the same route but in reverse…after a quick exchange we headed off, this time taking the road into Fort Augustus.

The road was fast and busy (as ever), and being responsible citizens we were compelled to stop regularly to allow our own private traffic jam to pass, much to the welcome toots of thanks from coach drivers. Undulating as ever, it was a welcome relief when the route eventually threw us back onto the towpath some 7 miles from Fort Augustus. As we got closer the towpath got busier, as did the number of boats moored near either edge of the canal. Despite having seen much, it was with some surprise we encountered this “fine fella” (Australian phrase for fine looking gentleman apparently), awaiting the arrival of some American visitors as he was due to pipe them on board. Clearly a photo opportunity not to be missed. So without further ado, we took full advantage of the situation and then moved onto Fort Augustus and our overnight accommodation. Tomorrow we would cycle up Loch Ness and beyond to Invergordon.

Day 12

Fort Augustus to Invergordon – 101km, 942m of ascent

Before we set off for what we all knew was going to be tough morning, we gathered the ladies together for a swift photo opportunity in front of The Bothy, the local hostelry which sadly we hd not had time to frequent.

The climb was mad and one of the toughest on the route at some 393m, the summit being Suidhe Viewpoint. We travelled barely 500m before the climb started on the far side of Lochness. Looking at it on Garmin it moved through an interesting spectrum of colour over its 5 mile duration. Red, amber, green red, black (not had one of those before), then red and amber…if nothing else the different colours were at least an indication to gradients. Having. been up this particular hill some 6 years ago I knew what was in store, (although last time we had met a scotsman playing bagpipes at the top and selling tea towels), – this time not so. The clouds were hanging over the loch as we climbed, we also had a group of enthusiastic e-bike riders, (makes for a more inclusive sport so a good thing), giving us motivational call outs on the way up. Without exception everyone got up this one in a much improved capacity than they they would have done if faced with this on day 2 or 3. At the top it was wild and windy but with splendid views over the loch and surrounding countryside.

Given conditions we hung around briefly and then headed down to the promised coffee and cake stop some 16k on. It was whilst heading down the very steep gradients that appeared to run on for miles I first noticed a grating nose coming from the bike. Given the gradients I did a quick check and having reassured myself it was not either the headset, bearings, wheels, crank consulted at the bottom with our learned tour leader Mick. Free hub was his suggestion, (I was not overly familiar with this I confess), but looking it up I now know it is an “extension of the right-hand side of the rear wheel’s hub which contains a system that engages with the wheel when you’re pedalling, to propel you forward, and which disengages when you stop pedalling” so the wheel continues to turn without the gears and pedals turning. Hence I had a brutal noise when I was free wheeling but not when pedalling. Upshot was I “borrowed ” a spare rear wheel and super Pete and Mick changed the cassette and sorted the bike out for me in les time than it would take an F1 team to change a tyre! Lunch was some way down the Loch at The Dores Inn, which like much around appeared to specialise in Nessie and great views. After eating , admiring the view and buying the obligatory fridge magnet of Nessie we moved on.

After lunch we headed towards Inverness town centre via road, past the Inverness Caledonian Thistle ground and ultimately across the Kessock bridge via the cycle path on one side. The last time we had crossed this bridge was after completing the North Cast 500 and we were travelling in the opposite direction. Given that this carries the main A9 it is more than extremely busy in terms of traffic and speed. It is also very windy making travelling across just one of those slightly adrenalin fuelled rides, but offering great views both up and down the Beauly Firth. From here it was road and track riding to get to Invergordon. Given that we had now ben riding for 12days, what was noticeable is that base speed had increased significantly and although undulating, we were travelling at 30 kmph, for much of the time into Invergordon. Our accommodation was a pub not far from the waters edge at the far end of town which offered great views up and down the Cromarty Firth. However the best bit of my day was a visit from Jo Adams in the evening. By the time you get to day 12 and are extremely tired, there is nothing nicer than a friendly hug! Jo was also the provider of a very neat little bottle of Highland Park 12 year old, very gratefully received by both Myra and I and consumed post meal and pre bed.

Day 13

Invergordon to Bettyhill – 126k, 835m ascent

Today is reputedly one of the top 3 rides in the uk. We left Invergordon and began to climb up into beautiful countryside. A relatively long day on tired legs, it was very much about getting heads down and finding some headspace and motivation to push on through the first 22 miles to the Brew Stop. The temperature was lower than it had been previously and over a cup of tea, given conditions, it seemed sensible to put back on our overshoes. The scenery was beautiful but as we climbed the weather became more brutal as we continued by the Kyle of Sutherland, through the Shin Forrest to Lairg which sits at the the southern end of Loch Shin. The ride then became increasingly spectacular as we wound up through woods and high moorland to the Crank Inn for lunch. Very much like the Tan Hill Inn (for those who have been there or completed the Pennine Way, it was extremely remote and majestic.

Coming out of lunch (soup roll and sandwiches very much appreciated), the rain descended, very hard. It was time again to don waterproof jackets and go for the descent. From here it was some 32 miles on to Bettyhill, decending via what was often a single track road (with ups and downs of course), through Altnahara & alongside Loch Naver & through a beautiful area known as Strathnaver. As we followed the river, passing through small hamlets and random dwellings, there were fabulous views across the Pentland Firth. Also magically, as we descended the rain cleared and the sun came out, – although still some 18 degrees colder than one week ago!

After winding through hills we eventually arrived at a junction which amazingly told us we were just 2 miles away from our destination. The majestic scenery continued into Bettyhill, as did the hills with a final kick up into town marking another Garmin climb. This section of the ride truly is epic. It is challenging because of countryside and weather but very beautiful in its rolling substantial hills which makes it so very different from Gelencoe. Tough? Yes. It was with huge delight we rolled into Bettyhill with 50 lumpy miles remaining tomorrow.

Day 14

Bettyhill to John O’Groats – 80km, 721m ascent

This was it, the last ride . It was a busy busy day. We left Bettyhill and its great views behind, with much regret after a superb evening meal , prior to which the Australian girls had decided to go for a swim in the sea..no-one else felt the urge it is safe to say. The wind was in theory behind us, but as ever the road is not straight although it may look so on the map above. We had 4 decent climbs in the first half of the ride, then we would all meet for a last “brew stop” before heading off and regrouping some 7 miles outside of JOG.

The last brew stop was nostalgic – it has become part of our daily routine to consume breakfast, then consume bread & peanut butter, jelly babies, malt loaf, fig biscuits, cookies, peanuts, salted crisps in abundance before heading off for the next section of the day.

From here despite not being a race, we all undoubtedly had a sniff of the finish and rode off, this time the wind was mainly behind us and getting slightly carried away I was able to lead out and break my land speed record on the flat hitting 52.3 km ph which even Garmin noticed and gave a virtual award. (Thanks Garmin!)

Outside of JOG, we regrouped, waited for those who had got punctures (again), removed our waterproofs and all rode to the finish as a group heading to the legendary mileage marker point. Riding in was exhilarating and who would have guessed there would be much cheering from the tired yet excited to finish humans still on their bikes after over 1000 miles of pedalling. As ever Pete the provider of all things snack wise, provided something better – Prosecco in paper cups. Amazing.

Whilst it was brilliant to finish it was also the end of something quite special. 2 weeks on a bike gives you little time to think of anything else, you are up early, eating at prescribed times, doing laundry quickly and trying to patch up bits of body that are suffering before falling asleep. There is a cumulative sleep deficit. However, it gives a break from the day to day and allows you to compare and contrast the entire UK in a 2 week time slot.

Would I do it again? -Not next week that is for sure, but cycle touring is something special, especially when you are challenging yourself on a daily basis. The big stuff makes the small stuff of life more manageable and as I told those who asked, – it is is good for your soul.