St Cuthberts Way (a post covid birthday celebration)

Although Jos special birthday had been and gone and another 12 months been added to her years, we had always intended to meet and walk. The question was where, who of the girls would join us and how long a walk we would do. Having initially thought Hadrians Wall a good option, 2 years of covid running through the uk put pay to that idea given the general impact on lives and inability to meet and train as a team. So, having been inspired by a Staycation last summer In Northumberland and a visit to Lindisfarne, then seeing Tony Robinson walking this very route, it became clear it was perfect as a post covid challenge. 64 miles over 5 days.

Night 1 we stayed at the fabulous Dryburgh Abbey Hotel. The grounds are stunning rolling down to the River Tweed. The hotel was constructed in 1845 and is extremely impressive both In terms of service and food. A key focus is upon supporting local producers with the result that the food served in the bar was fantastic!

Day 1 walking Melrose to Harestanes Visitor Centre – 23k

Today was amazing. We caught a taxi across to Melrose @ 5k to start the walk at the official location. There had been snow overnight and the hills looked lovely, the air was clear and the sky was blue. (Oh and the temperature was 1 degree). The walk started by Melrose Abbey, (currently fenced off but looking fantastic in the early light). It then set off up hill, a steady steep climb, gaining height fast and affording some great views.

Highlights of the morning walk were walking through the most beautiful woods of wild garlic and primrose along small brooks which ultimately took us back to the river Tweed. Late morning saw us pass Dryburgh Abbey, where we had stayed the previous night, but on the opposite bank. It was 3k further on that we decided to stop and have lunch by the Tweed for the last time before breaking away to head up hill.

The remaining 10k taking is to Hastanes visitor centre was along an old Roman Road, where we were once again able to look back on the two peaks in the distance we had climbed in the morning as part of our first steep ascent.

A notable stopping point along the way was Lilliards Tomb with a corresponding ditty!

Our accommodation in Jedburgh (as close as we could get to Hastanes Visitor Centre ) was Allerton House. Outstanding food, packed lunch and hosts who clearly cares for their walking community. More than highly recommended…..

Day 2- walking Jedburgh to Kirk Yetholme – 30k

Todays walk was never going to be easy, however clear blue sky and the presence of some of the yellow stuff complimented with magnificent view made it seem amazing. We set off from Jedburgh options for taking the Borders Abbeys Way out of town and picking up St Cuthberts way a few k up the road.

Moving in from here the day seemed relatively easy if undulating. What was surprising was the amount of uprooted trees that we were passing on a consistent basis. Remnants from the very strong winds of recent storms…..and we could still look back to our original start point! Around 1 pm the cloud began to close in and the winds picked up…we made a lunch stop at Crawford Castle. Yet more amazing remains and a welcome shelter from the wind.

After lunch was always going to be tough, however this was exacerbated by the steadily increasing wind. We stopped in Morebattle at an extremely unwelcoming community shop before attacking the 3 peaks that we knew were going to test us. The first was enticingly names Grubbit Law at 345m with a stupidly steep side to be climbed leading up from the road. The second was Wideopen Hill and then into Crookedshawes Hill, before descending towards our final destination…

The “surprise surprise” factor was the view descending from Grubbit Law and heading up the windy ridge toWideopen Hill as shown in the video below.

Despite some very tough conditions which culminated in rain closing in we made it to our overnight destination. The Border Hotel where walkers from both the Pennines Way and St Cuthberts stay , as a result of which there is good walking food and great beer! The large table we were given allowed us to spread out maps and plot tomorrows route. A mere 12 miles but apparently 6.5 – 7 hours worth of walking…..Can’t wait! 🙃

Day 3 – Kirk Yetholme to Wooler – 26k

Today was a day of big views, sun , wind and rain. We left Kirk Yetholme and headed up Coldsmouth Hills on a track that also doubled with the Pennine Way.

Steep from the off, the initial climb took us up through some very big views which took your breath away with their sheer size and the openness of the hills, mixing scree with gorse that was just coming into flower in a full saturated vibrant yellow. As we wound on upwards the gorse gave way to heather , with an abundance of grouse and skylarks who were managing to make themselves heard above the ever increasing wind.

Conscious of the contours yet to be climbed and the incoming rain mid afternoon we kept our lunch stop to a minimum of 15 mins having found a relatively sheltered spot with a brook on one side and a pine Forrest on the other.

From here we walked to Hethpool cottages designed in the Arts & Crafts style and dating back to 1926 before heading along some relatively low contours alongside a brook where we spotted some very fine adders lurking under a bush …

From here the only way was up, gradual to begin. With but a consistent climb took us through pine forests and back into the open working our way ever upward in the direction of Tom Tallons Crag. This section below the Crag and across to Wooler is both boggy and tough going given it’s extremely exposed nature. It was then made worse by the start of the forecast rain which became a squall as we worked out way across the open ground, seeking out dry footings as we went through….eventually after an emergency waterproof session (everything we possess went on) , we made our way onward across the open land and turning a corner (literally) saw Wooler some 3 miles off to our left. The descent was gradual and despite being hit by incoming squalls , relatively straightforward in comparison to our trek across the summits. Once in Wooler our accommodation was relatively easy to find and abs with a pub next door and a restaurant behind, we couldn’t ask for more. We had a great meal at Milan, made even better with excellent service. A tough day all round, especially building on the tiredness of the previous but ..a great evening with much laughter finished the day off extremely well! Happy!

Day 4 – Wooler to Beale 23k

Today started at a Milk bar in Wooler with the most fantastic coffee and, after last nights excellent meal accompanied by excellent wine, was very much needed! The walk was an immediate up before plateauing and running half way up the contours. The rain came and went , we were surrounded by heavy rain clouds which at times obscured the surrounding hill tops. Our Cuthbert micro climate kept us relatively dry, although we were glad not to be walking on the hill tops today. Todays landscape was very different from yesterdays. The bleak summits of yesterday giving way to rolling hills and fields. The heavy overnight rain was very apparent, although the very sleek looking herds of cows seemed indifferent to the fields of mud.

Having reached the 10k half way point we were looking for a sheltered place to stop when we encountered our first statue of Cuthbert, beautifully carved in wood., albeit sadly missing one paw. Not ideal for a statue carved in 2017!

From here our next port of a call zone 5k later was St Cuthberts cave, now owned and managed by the National Trust. This is where Cuthbert body was taken and hidden by the monks in 875 Ad during their flight from Lindisfarne after repeated Viking raids. The cave is evocative albeit now defaced in places with modern graffiti! Cuthberts body was carried around northern England for 8 years before being enshrined in Chester-le-street for over a century before being moved to Durham Cathedral. You can’t help but wonder how this resting place differs from other Christian supposed sites and how come this has been left virtually unmarked. Leaving the cave we continue through the woods and then head up between two hills, Greensheen and Cockenheugh. It is here we got our first sighting of Lindisfarne-a truly inspirational moment!

The remainder of the route to Beale, our stopover for this night requires us to skirt and cut through Scot’s pine forests where it is impossible not to be struck by the sheer devastation following the high winds of a month ago.

Day 5 – Beale to Lindisfarne via The Pilgrims Trail – 13k

Having enjoyed not having to pack up to head off this morning (2 nights in one hotel) we set off on a leisurely stroll but with much excitement (and trepidation) heading down to the causeway and pilgrims trail which marked the. Link across to Lindisfarne island. Given we were very much governed by the tides we had to hold back until 11.30 at which point the tides would be low enough for us to make the 2 mile crossing. We set off from the causeway on road and then @ 200m in took the line off to the right to follow the markers across the sand out to the isle. The causeway arches around to the left in a crescent shape. The pilgrim route across the wet sand is more direct, but very much gives off a feel of insignificance given the magnitude of the skies in this part of our planet.

The walk was long, sandy, very muddy in places and in parts quite challenging. What was curious is that despite the distance being 2 miles, there were no freezing feet. Quite remarkable given it was early April and we were barefoot.

On arriving on Lindisfarne the priority is to dry, get warm and head out to the Abbey and Church. As ever amazing views and an operational interior to St Marys church which has a magnificent life size carving, “Journey” is created from 7 elm trees and depicts Cuthberts body being carried from Lindisfarne by the monks as they look for a safe place to lay him to rest. (Lawson 1999).