Author: takingamaturegapyear

Landing in Tasmania looked a lot like landing in England. The weather was colder than Australia and the small but functional airport was a mix between Inverness inside and wales in the surrounding views. Having had a 1 hour delay due to plane mechanicals we were keen to get a cab to our hotel for the first night in downtown Launceston. Grabbing a cab, (Annabel researched the cheapest option), it took around 20 mins to get to hotel Grand Chancellor in the centre of the city. We quickly unpacked, dashed out to get a few more plasters and then went for the suggested walk in our welcome pack through the Royal Park in town and up the zig zag path which led to the cataract George, part of the hydro system . The views were spectacular and the climb steep and also marked “hard” at the bottom which Annabel didn’t notice and I didn’t point out. meet our tour guide at 6pm.

When I signed up for this walk I had been told I was in the last space, imagine our surprise when we firstly met one other couple and then secondly met the guide to be told that we were now the only 4 on the trip, however the upside was that it was going ahead and we would get undivided attention. After a great dinner albeit served slowly ( we were sharing the hotel with participants in the Tasmanian Brass Band competition who fortunately we couldn’t hear in our room) we headed off ready for a 6.30 start.

The Sunday dawned beautifully sunny. We were leaving Launceston at 7.45 and driving the 2 hour trip to St Helens where we would be based for the next 3 days. Our tour guide Kim had prepare a great elevenses break for us, tea \coffee and carrot cake which we had having unhooked the trailer at our accommodation and driven a few k’s further to Bjnalong Bay.

The lichen on the rocks making it appear red, the translucent sea and white sand were absolutely breathtaking. Even better we were the only people there.

From our morning tea we drove a further 8k to our start point at Humbug National Park spotting some Turbo Chooks (Tasmanian Hens) en route, so called given their speed of up to 40 kmph. We arrived at the parking lot via a combination of winding and steep narrow roads, once we arrived there, there were a number of discreet bush parking bays, a number of which were occupied with vans \camper vans many of whom were owned by “silver nomads” as the locals like to call them. Those lucky enough to be able to live this lifestyle can stay for up to 28 days in beautiful parks \ conservation areas with almost deserted beaches all to themselves. Usefully there are a number of discrete toilet units dotted around with detail of local flora and fauna and wildlife usually adjacent to add to the experience.

We headed out onto the beach, again white sand blue sea surrounded by rock and bush land.

The walk itself was not too onerous and started at the end of the beach with a scramble over rocks and a small climb up into woodland. Initially the path had been signposted as closed but this had been one month ago and appeared to be due to controlled burning where fallen trees and debris had not yet all been cleared. We thought on assessment that the path looked fine and walked on through. The burning gives a mosaic impression once you enter it. There are patches where the area is dead and then patches where it is very much alive, the latter gives opportunity for local wild life to continue to exist and then move to the next zone as each is burned in turn.

Additionally from an eco point of view certain plants are stimulated by burning and it actively promotes new growth as below.

It was after walking some way along the path we came upon 2 lads in full wet suits who had been diving off the rocks and successfully caught Abalone, a Japanese delicacy that lives in shells whose texture is like oyster shells ie pearlised inside. They were cooking them up for tonight’s supper and looked pretty pleased with themselves.

Walking on further and close to Skeleton Point we were aware of a lot of noise coming from the trees – on looking up we had a family of Black Cockatoos . One older young bird and parents with the young cockatoo calling noisily for food whilst the parents ignored him – hence the noise!

Having reached the end point of our walk just short of skeleton point we turned round and walked back the way we had come. The flora and fauna along the way were fascinating and Kim our guide for the week was extremely knowledgeable in local geography and geology making her able to explain and identify items on the way through .

On reaching the beach we had started from the only thing to do was paddle – not quite as warm as we would have liked but extremely refreshing. From here and feeling somewhat weather beaten it was back in the bus and off to our accommodation . A great day and so much to take in. Roll on tomorrow.

Shellharbour to Carringbah

This was not a great ride for a number of reasons. Although it started off beautifully pedalling up the coast from shell harbour and following the well signed bike route, it relatively soon became the not so well signposted bike route. We found ourselves on\alongside a 3 lane highway, heading into Woolongong. The smell of carbon monoxide was noticeable. Getting slightly frustrated we dived off down a side road to the right, only to find ourselves circumnavigating a large steelworks plant . Marginally frustrating as the fellow cyclist we had met the previous day had indicated we should be fine on the path and would be able to look back at it from a beautiful beach which lay just beyond. Not a beautiful beach in sight!

Being short on time and keen to move onto the National Park , we decided to hop on the train and head to Otford – a couple of stops up where we could get off and cycle through the legendary National park.

Getting off at Otford required us to get to Hellensborough and then head back one stop. Fortunately the trains were in our favour and we were able to make the short hop back and off at Otford.

Otford was small as stations go and all that could be seen around it were trees and undergrowth. What was evident was that the station was at the bottom of a steep cutting. What was even more evident was that getting up and out of the cutting was less than straightforward., especially when wearing cleats and carrying bikes plus 2 panniers. The “steps”up were an uneven set of stones set in the steep bank which twisted and turned. There was a metal rail on the left to hang onto as you scrambled up each “flight”, – first with bike and then with panniers., eventually reaching the end of the staircase but not the top of the hill.

Having eventually reached the summit we found ourselves on the road which of course went down as far as we had we had climbed up.

The roads were dark and winding through lush undergrowth . Whilst absolutely beautiful the main issue was that we had ground to cover , had not eaten since breakfast , there was nothing en route other than undergrowth and winding roads over up and down hill. To cut a long ride short we (me) decided to head up a long (steep) and winding gradient and head to Waterfall where we could pick up a train for the last couple of stops which would get us within a sensible proximity to Carringbah in time to get food. Having agreed (I did) on the plan of action we cycled to our accommodation. Bikes and us were to be kept in the room (useful for hanging clothes off), meanwhile downstairs was the largest set of betting rooms we have ever encountered. All sports were catered for and all forms of bets seemed to be on , the main pub bar was as vast. After gratefully receiving our free beverage and realising I was the only female present we headed out to find some much needed food on the very outskirts of Sydney. Tomorrow would be a ride into the centre of town and surely that would be straightforward. 😊🚴‍♀️🚴

Huskie to Shellharbour

Huskie was beautiful, we had a great evening meal in a traditional Australian Italian restaurant accompanied by some good Australian red wine.We were so tired that despite much enthusiasm we were unable to finish the bottle, (eyes bigger than belly as mother would have said), so the remainder went into the water bottle for consumption at an opportune moment the next day! 🙂

Breakfast in the 5 pigs cafe was highly recommended. Paddleboard surfing seems to be the in-thing, – the bay being so beautiful it looked really calm. There was also one of what we realise are regular outside swimming pools- loving the fact that people are up and out so early getting their exercise in at the start of the day, neatly compartmentalising work and leisure.

Setting off up the coast it is easy to see why this section of the coast is a go to zone. Beautiful bays, clear seas and happy cyclists. We pedalled on up to Gerroa, admiring views and being frequently reminded that a coastal cycle route is never going to be flat. It was on route that we stopped at the bike shop in Nowra to buy some bits – you always need bits! Whilst there the owner came out to warn us against certain element soft the road saying there had been frequent deaths…the roads are fast and lead to the coast and people get excited.we set off with care and caution along the road , trying to keep to what was in places a non-existent hard shoulder. Here there was industrial traffic in between the odd vineyard. When the roads were good we were able to make decent progress but unfortunately this was not always the case. Lunch was at the Blue Swimmer – a great mini restaurant with a view over a sandy inlet. Conscious yet again the hill on the other side was substantial and steep we opted for a light lunch – a bit of a shame given the quality of the restaurant, – sharing a Tuna Ceviche and the most amazing Queen Fish dish with Fennel. After this it was back on the road slowly, admiring the beautiful coastal views as we climbed. Although obvious in many places the cycle path was sometimes there and sometimes not, sometimes not on the pavement and sometimes over roads and drives, resulting in frequent stops check Garmin. However – great views all round.

Still smiling… – just!

However, yet again we got to the stage where fighting our way up the coast was not going to work out and with reluctance – we ended up jumping onto a train for the last 10 k. It was on the train to Shellharbour that we met another cyclist , a rare thing, who was busy dong his morning laps but had also decided fighting the cycle path was not an option and had also taken to the train. What was helpful was that he was able to tell us about the planned route for the next day , where the path lie and what beautiful beaches lay ahead. Top tips are always useful. It also gave an opportunity to talk all things bike…

From the train we were able to a cycle relatively easily onto the site we had booked for the night. Our mobile home was spacious and almost on the beach. Having cleaned and locked the bikes we decided to walk up the road to get a beer and enjoy a fish basket of shellfish and battered everything at the local hotel. Having started outside we moved inside relatively fast, aware a storm we had been warned about was brewing. The storm was something else. Winds at 53 mph thunder and lightening. Fortunately no canvass was attached to us – however for some of the other campers there was a less pleasant experience.

Yet again the beach was beautiful with an outdoor swimming pool filled by the sea. The morning was calm, the views clear and a number of the locals out catching their breakfast.

After an early walk and coffee, it was time to hop back on the bikes and make our way onward to the next destination, Caringbah on the outskirts of South Sydney.

Braidwood to Huskisson (Huskie)

Today started with a visit to the one thing that Braidwood is best known for, it’s bakery and pie shop. Breakfast pies a whole new concept to us were being served to the Aussie workmen queuing , being European and unsure of the content we went large filled croissants and large pastry followed by large coffee. Ready to face the day we he headed out.

Yesterday had been brutal, no doubt about it. I had gone to sleep wearing everything until I warmed up under the very substantial duvet in a very warm room and had woken in the morning feeling slightly wiped, however when you are on a schedule you have to keep moving and there is no doubt a substantial breakfast revived us both.

Heading out of town we turned off the crazy busy main road that had been with us all of the previous day onto something smaller ( no choice) , heading out to the coast where we needed to be by evening.

Today was meant to be the big one at 120km with climb up through the great dividing range after lunch although we were gaining height through the morning – note to self not to eat too much at what looked like a decent lunchtime pub stop.

We set off and the road was lovely , much quieter although definitely undulating. The countryside was almost West Country hilly but of course the fields were vast, wildlife could be heard in abundance which made a pleasant change from the air horns of trucks as they screamed by.

We were 20k in and the air was warming up when Jeeves got another puncture, on the front again. Fortunately we had a spare tyre with us and another new inner tube, so we went for a full change. Changing tyres in the middle of a very open space in a quiet road means you need to keep your eyes open for any roaming wildlife. My main concern was brown snakes, having been warned about them and their speed. Mission accomplished we headed off. The road kill from the previous day was significantly less on this road at this stage, however we started to see a few more as we rolled on into more wooded areas. My strategy today was not to inhale as we cycled past, so spot it take a last breath and then exhale when it was behind. For some the atone was quite disturbing whereas for those carcasses where they had gone back to nature ie eaten and little flesh remained there was no aroma to speak of.

At 30k conditions suddenly changed and it became a gravel road . This was what we had feared as there was no way of identifying road surface. Trying to stick in tyre tracks resulted in success initially then the inevitable puncture, this time on Jeeves back wheel. by this time also it was warming up. We flagged a passing truck to ask how far the road surface was a gravel track, thinking that this was too difficult for us on touring bikes and we may have to turn back and come up with a plan B, not that there were many options for plan B. Thankfully his reply was that the gravel continued for another couple of k’s only, then became tarmac again.

The combination of 2 punctures had taken time , plus of course jeeves was cycling at a compromised speed although I was doing my best. The hills were a dig in endurance ride which I quite enjoy but he was stronger as you would expect, both on the ups and downs. The latter as he has more body and baggage weight! It was therefore about an hour later than planned we arrived at our lunch stop. A stand alone pub which was clearly a destination meet for locals.

Here we met Ralph. Ralph (a retired financial consultant who had originally lived and worked in Canberra, then moved to Huskie before leaving the business of the coast for a 100 hectare plot on the mountain top), was going our way, dropping his dad, who he has brought out for a lunchtime beer, back at his care home on the coast. Ralph had space in his truck for 1 bike. We were running late and had a good few k’s is to get done before sunset when you absolutely don’t want to be on the road. I loaded my bike (wheels off again) into his truck along with a couple of panniers and we arranged to meet jeeves some 14 k on at a bend in the road – sounds easy, however…..what ended up happening was that I went with Ralph and his dad Carl to his place, did a quick weight train g session in unloading the many Jerry cans of fuel into one of his many outhouses, then sat surveying the view for 10 mins whilst he drove his dad around the estate showing him the latest changes and then with the truck empty we drove back out onto the road in search of Jeeves.

Liberated by the lack of wife Jeeves had decided to push on up the hill and had got much further than Ralph had anticipated. “Does he time trial?” he asked me, “only against himself” I replied.

Thanks to the wonders of WhatsApp, me having an Australian SIM card and jeeves having a flakey Vodafone signal, we managed to catch up on tracking and found him by the side of a bend in the road. Carl, Ralph’s dad who aged 94 had slight dementia seemed to enjoy his day of adventure, Ralph took it all in his stride and could not have been nicer. We loaded bike 2 and headed downhill at speed discussing an array of current topics ranging from defence to renewables. Ralph was very proud, and rightly so, of the fact he was carbon neutral. His wife Di was a diabetes expert who worked with indigenous members of the population both in Aus and Alaska, – again something he was clearly rightly proud of.

At the bottom of the hill Carl was offloaded, as were, we and we said goodbye to Ralph.

We had a mere 10k left to Huskie, along the coast road (no it’s not flat Jeeves), Ralph meantime was going back up to his 100 hectare estate with a great view to have a few beers with the neighbours as it was a beer day.

Florey to Braidwood

Today started with a ride into Canberra after a quick trip to the local bike shop to pick up a link after replacing the one that had bent in my chain with the spare. Having provided the link and a couple of spare back lights the owner of the bike shop seemed most entertained by my Marmite water bottle,telling us he had a marmite cycle top. (So did I until leaving it in a hotel on LEJOG last year).

Unusually our route to the capital was predominantly down hill, we had decided to stop at Parliament House after swinging by the lake in the centre of town to start.

Aside from the feeling you were cycling in the middle of the capital city alongside the main freeways, the fact you were on cycle lanes at least left a feeling of some protection. We arrived at Parliament House having found the tradesmen’s entrance and cycled through the very fine gardens surrounding the building where bizarrely we both got independently swooped by magpies protecting their nest. Gus had warned us of this but a substantial smack around the head from a magpie makes you thankful (again) you are wearing a helmet!

Having parked the bikes in the underground car park we headed up to see the impressive building which was as good as it looked from a distance.

Sadly we didn’t have time to go around the building (sadly) it was time to head out of town and ride off on what was going to be the first of two long hard days out to the coast.

Given that there are not many roads in Aus, everything (I mean everything) uses the few that exist. We set off on one up a long haul hill, which split into 2 after some 30k. we chose the road that was slightly longer but at least afforded the opportunity of a lunch stop.

The climbs were long and with panniers it became harder, despite the fact we had really packed a minimum. It was with a sense of relief we hit the lunch spot at Bungendore, not to be confused with Bangalore which could easily be done as Bombay was relatively close by!by lunch time I was feeling wiped, not being a confirmed cyclist like Jeeves, I was hoping to get through on rowing fitness and a few spin classes. I hadn’t really factored in the endless climbing so I’m afraid to speed us up (make it less painful for Jeeves) when he asked if he could take one of my panniers, instead of my usual response I said yes.

The traffic was consistent meaning we were grateful for a thin but equally consistent hard shoulder. The road surface too made life tougher, gravel and truck potholes where heavy weights had forced the overheated tarmac to ruck up meant you had to pay attention the whole time. Gravel on the hard shoulder also reduced the run on the tyres making everything feel much harder. There were trucks with trailers aplenty, cars, artics, some motorbikes but no bicycles. The air horns on the trucks as they hooted shooting past kept you focussed, there was a consistent trail of roadkill meaning that you frequently had to pull out to avoid a roo’s paw or other bits of animal that had made it to the hard shoulder but not to the ditch to the side. As the climbing continued I amused myself by identifying the remains – what was sad is seeing 2 koalas \wombats along the route. The peak of our climbing was at 850m. After this the weather started closing in, raincould be seen in the distance , the wind was picking up and the temperature dropped meaning the last 40k was a battle. We were tired and the traffic was incessant. For me it was a case of just pedalling onwards, conscious that jeeves was slowing for me. Ironic it was 6k out of our overnight destination that he got a puncture. It’s no fun stopping when it is cold and windy by the side of one of the few roads to the coast. With trucks and cars flying by. I was grateful to be able to start pedalling and head into our overnight stop of Braidwood.

Our final destination that night was The Royal Mail Hotel. Looking at it from the outside it gave the impression it had just been lifted out of a western. However the room was warm and clean and the food served was good. Having turned myself inside out on the bike ride in addition to getting pretty cold whilst waiting on the puncture change, the hot shower was very welcome. It’s not often you see a body battery figure of 1 on Garmin – an early night was definitely called for.

Background to this trip

In the beginning when the world was young, a small group of us lived in close proximity in and around South Wimbledon. A significant number of that group were moved by water and members at Kingston Rowing Club. Annabel who lives a couple of streets away was our cox and shared a house with Simon who worked with me at the time at Superdrug HQ and Bill who rowed at UL and also worked at Superdrug HQ). Jo and Annie lived relatively close by in West Byfleet and Kew respectively. Vince another key group member, lived around the corner (and was the best chum of an old secondary school friend), kindly tolerated us endlessly talking all things water whilst he talked all things horse racing and football.

It is these fine people and our respective partners who are convening in Sydney for the wedding of Annabel’s and Simon’s eldest, Rosanna . (Annabel and Simon having got together whilst in our happy South Wimbledon community and decided Aus provided better opportunities than the UK)

It’s also worth saying that our friendship has remained strong throughout our lives, especially in Covid times when we would meet on line every 2 weeks to discuss how we were bearing up and the merits or otherwise of each of our respective governments approaches to handling the pandemic. Bearing in mind that we lived in 4 different parts of the globe this was not always easy. Jo was in Scotland, Annie in Canada, Annabel in Aus and myself in England.

“The wedding” has been some 18 months in the planning and we have all been excited by the prospect of a global meet up since we heard the news. However, sitting here on our Boeing 787 on the second leg of our journey (1 hour stopover in Singapore) it feels like it has gone from a “long time coming” to “it’s now” in a very short space of time.

The Plan

To cut a long story short, we are spending a couple of weeks with Simon and Annabel and then doing other stuff around the edges. Our “other stuff” was a plan to start with a one week bike ride, which you might think would be relatively simple. Not so! Whilst completing LEJOG last year there had been 5 Australians in our group who assured me that the cycle infrastructure in Aus was very different to the UK, How can that be I thought, followed by surely not. However having spent a considerable amount of time researching routes we might cycle pre-wedding and bikes we might possibly hire in order to do this it was clear they were correct. Bikes were either e-bikes or off road , whilst routes were self contained and in reality not quite as brutal as we like to make our rides. (Or Jeeves does). End result we left home with 2 bike boxes , 2 bags crammed with wedding attire (black tie), cycle kit, work clothes as Jeeves was visiting clients of customers for a week after the wedding and I was going hiking with Annabel to Tassie, plus cabin bags. An 8 seater taxi got us to Heathrow , none of which was without stress, but end result we were in our way.

Sydney to Canberra

Simon and Annabel havjng been more than hospitable in keeping us awake by walking and feeding us, plus having had not too shabby a nights sleep, we were feeling slightly more joined up this morning in terms of body and soul as we said our goodbyes and with bikes built and panniers loaded headed to the local station to take the train to Sydney Central and on to Canberra.

The trip from Pymble to Canberra by train was both super efficient and good value at $1. Although our train was not leaving until 12.01 we were required to arrive 1hr 30 ahead of schedule to take the bikes apart (oh yes) and box them for the 4 hour transit. Being relatively well practiced it was completed swiftly and with bikes boxed and weighed we headed for what the station staff told us was the best brunch or anything stop within the concourse. When you see signs like this it is rude not to!

In Canberra we staying overnight with an old friend from my early working days. Jayne and I had known each other since the late eighties when we both worked on the same merchandising team. At Presto \Safeway (more brands long gone!). Last time we had caught up had been some 6 years ago just outside Belfast when we both stayed with another of our good friends from that time, Diane McInnes, to whom Jayne had been bridesmaid a number of years back. Jayne has been in aus since the early 90’s so a catch up is a rare and treasured event.

Canberra Station to Florey

Having arrived Canberra train station, the first thing that hits is the fact there is just one line in and out,- so very different to the busyness of Sydney. The train had a character, a 3 carriage diesel that wound along into small and smaller stations, accompanied by staff who had bags of personality and were given to making unorthodox announcements. “We are also serving kiddie mac n cheese with something indescribable on it” etc

The first thing to do was collect and build (yet again) the bikes. Whilst Jeeves bike was fine, on getting mine out of the cardboard box we found the chain had twisted around the rear derailer and needed some TLC before heading out on the 19k ride to get to Florey where Jayne lived. We did the best we could and took to the streets of Canberra en route to Florey.

Canberra is so very different. It has cycle lanes , is bonkers busy with traffic, & is very organised in its layout. The lake in the centre with its boardwalk , work out parks, high rise office buildings with big name organisations reminded me of Toronto \ Chicago waterfront. With the work on the bike and the checking of routes and swapping of cycle lanes to cross various freeways AND cycling via Parliament House in the way through, we eventually arrived at Florey, a well organised suburb on the fringes of Canberra. What had also become obvious on the way over is that my bike was not behaving in that it was self selecting it’s gears, it clearly needed further work but that could wait until the next day.

On arriving (eventually) at Jayne and Gus’s we were greeted with a huge welcome which involved sitting in the garden, eating mussels and prawns ( no time to change) with the obligatory beer \glass, followed by the best barbecued chicken ever. After much talking and making merry it was time to sleep which was very welcome after a slightly stressful bike day.

The next morning we were accompanying the guys in their 6 am constitutional down to the local park. This seems to very much be a thing to do given the amount of other locals doing the same.

Again as Canberra much thought had gone into the layout including a zip wire as part of the work out zone which Gus was keen to demo.

However all very good things come to an end – and Jeeves having done his best with my bike chain, me having talked even more to Jayne and Suli their daughter, looked at photos, been in awe of Jaynes black belt 3rd Dan certificate in Marshall Arts, it was sadly time to go.

Some last minute hugs and more photos and a promise not to leave it so long next time, we were off.

Although Jos special birthday had been and gone and another 12 months been added to her years, we had always intended to meet and walk. The question was where, who of the girls would join us and how long a walk we would do. Having initially thought Hadrians Wall a good option, 2 years of covid running through the uk put pay to that idea given the general impact on lives and inability to meet and train as a team. So, having been inspired by a Staycation last summer In Northumberland and a visit to Lindisfarne, then seeing Tony Robinson walking this very route, it became clear it was perfect as a post covid challenge. 64 miles over 5 days.

Night 1 we stayed at the fabulous Dryburgh Abbey Hotel. The grounds are stunning rolling down to the River Tweed. The hotel was constructed in 1845 and is extremely impressive both In terms of service and food. A key focus is upon supporting local producers with the result that the food served in the bar was fantastic!

Day 1 walking Melrose to Harestanes Visitor Centre – 23k

Today was amazing. We caught a taxi across to Melrose @ 5k to start the walk at the official location. There had been snow overnight and the hills looked lovely, the air was clear and the sky was blue. (Oh and the temperature was 1 degree). The walk started by Melrose Abbey, (currently fenced off but looking fantastic in the early light). It then set off up hill, a steady steep climb, gaining height fast and affording some great views.

Highlights of the morning walk were walking through the most beautiful woods of wild garlic and primrose along small brooks which ultimately took us back to the river Tweed. Late morning saw us pass Dryburgh Abbey, where we had stayed the previous night, but on the opposite bank. It was 3k further on that we decided to stop and have lunch by the Tweed for the last time before breaking away to head up hill.

The remaining 10k taking is to Hastanes visitor centre was along an old Roman Road, where we were once again able to look back on the two peaks in the distance we had climbed in the morning as part of our first steep ascent.

A notable stopping point along the way was Lilliards Tomb with a corresponding ditty!

Our accommodation in Jedburgh (as close as we could get to Hastanes Visitor Centre ) was Allerton House. Outstanding food, packed lunch and hosts who clearly cares for their walking community. More than highly recommended…..

Day 2- walking Jedburgh to Kirk Yetholme – 30k

Todays walk was never going to be easy, however clear blue sky and the presence of some of the yellow stuff complimented with magnificent view made it seem amazing. We set off from Jedburgh options for taking the Borders Abbeys Way out of town and picking up St Cuthberts way a few k up the road.

Moving in from here the day seemed relatively easy if undulating. What was surprising was the amount of uprooted trees that we were passing on a consistent basis. Remnants from the very strong winds of recent storms…..and we could still look back to our original start point! Around 1 pm the cloud began to close in and the winds picked up…we made a lunch stop at Crawford Castle. Yet more amazing remains and a welcome shelter from the wind.

After lunch was always going to be tough, however this was exacerbated by the steadily increasing wind. We stopped in Morebattle at an extremely unwelcoming community shop before attacking the 3 peaks that we knew were going to test us. The first was enticingly names Grubbit Law at 345m with a stupidly steep side to be climbed leading up from the road. The second was Wideopen Hill and then into Crookedshawes Hill, before descending towards our final destination…

The “surprise surprise” factor was the view descending from Grubbit Law and heading up the windy ridge toWideopen Hill as shown in the video below.

Despite some very tough conditions which culminated in rain closing in we made it to our overnight destination. The Border Hotel where walkers from both the Pennines Way and St Cuthberts stay , as a result of which there is good walking food and great beer! The large table we were given allowed us to spread out maps and plot tomorrows route. A mere 12 miles but apparently 6.5 – 7 hours worth of walking…..Can’t wait! 🙃

Day 3 – Kirk Yetholme to Wooler – 26k

Today was a day of big views, sun , wind and rain. We left Kirk Yetholme and headed up Coldsmouth Hills on a track that also doubled with the Pennine Way.

Steep from the off, the initial climb took us up through some very big views which took your breath away with their sheer size and the openness of the hills, mixing scree with gorse that was just coming into flower in a full saturated vibrant yellow. As we wound on upwards the gorse gave way to heather , with an abundance of grouse and skylarks who were managing to make themselves heard above the ever increasing wind.

Conscious of the contours yet to be climbed and the incoming rain mid afternoon we kept our lunch stop to a minimum of 15 mins having found a relatively sheltered spot with a brook on one side and a pine Forrest on the other.

From here we walked to Hethpool cottages designed in the Arts & Crafts style and dating back to 1926 before heading along some relatively low contours alongside a brook where we spotted some very fine adders lurking under a bush …

From here the only way was up, gradual to begin. With but a consistent climb took us through pine forests and back into the open working our way ever upward in the direction of Tom Tallons Crag. This section below the Crag and across to Wooler is both boggy and tough going given it’s extremely exposed nature. It was then made worse by the start of the forecast rain which became a squall as we worked out way across the open ground, seeking out dry footings as we went through….eventually after an emergency waterproof session (everything we possess went on) , we made our way onward across the open land and turning a corner (literally) saw Wooler some 3 miles off to our left. The descent was gradual and despite being hit by incoming squalls , relatively straightforward in comparison to our trek across the summits. Once in Wooler our accommodation was relatively easy to find and abs with a pub next door and a restaurant behind, we couldn’t ask for more. We had a great meal at Milan, made even better with excellent service. A tough day all round, especially building on the tiredness of the previous but ..a great evening with much laughter finished the day off extremely well! Happy!

Day 4 – Wooler to Beale 23k

Today started at a Milk bar in Wooler with the most fantastic coffee and, after last nights excellent meal accompanied by excellent wine, was very much needed! The walk was an immediate up before plateauing and running half way up the contours. The rain came and went , we were surrounded by heavy rain clouds which at times obscured the surrounding hill tops. Our Cuthbert micro climate kept us relatively dry, although we were glad not to be walking on the hill tops today. Todays landscape was very different from yesterdays. The bleak summits of yesterday giving way to rolling hills and fields. The heavy overnight rain was very apparent, although the very sleek looking herds of cows seemed indifferent to the fields of mud.

Having reached the 10k half way point we were looking for a sheltered place to stop when we encountered our first statue of Cuthbert, beautifully carved in wood., albeit sadly missing one paw. Not ideal for a statue carved in 2017!

From here our next port of a call zone 5k later was St Cuthberts cave, now owned and managed by the National Trust. This is where Cuthbert body was taken and hidden by the monks in 875 Ad during their flight from Lindisfarne after repeated Viking raids. The cave is evocative albeit now defaced in places with modern graffiti! Cuthberts body was carried around northern England for 8 years before being enshrined in Chester-le-street for over a century before being moved to Durham Cathedral. You can’t help but wonder how this resting place differs from other Christian supposed sites and how come this has been left virtually unmarked. Leaving the cave we continue through the woods and then head up between two hills, Greensheen and Cockenheugh. It is here we got our first sighting of Lindisfarne-a truly inspirational moment!

The remainder of the route to Beale, our stopover for this night requires us to skirt and cut through Scot’s pine forests where it is impossible not to be struck by the sheer devastation following the high winds of a month ago.

Day 5 – Beale to Lindisfarne via The Pilgrims Trail – 13k

Having enjoyed not having to pack up to head off this morning (2 nights in one hotel) we set off on a leisurely stroll but with much excitement (and trepidation) heading down to the causeway and pilgrims trail which marked the. Link across to Lindisfarne island. Given we were very much governed by the tides we had to hold back until 11.30 at which point the tides would be low enough for us to make the 2 mile crossing. We set off from the causeway on road and then @ 200m in took the line off to the right to follow the markers across the sand out to the isle. The causeway arches around to the left in a crescent shape. The pilgrim route across the wet sand is more direct, but very much gives off a feel of insignificance given the magnitude of the skies in this part of our planet.

The walk was long, sandy, very muddy in places and in parts quite challenging. What was curious is that despite the distance being 2 miles, there were no freezing feet. Quite remarkable given it was early April and we were barefoot.

On arriving on Lindisfarne the priority is to dry, get warm and head out to the Abbey and Church. As ever amazing views and an operational interior to St Marys church which has a magnificent life size carving, “Journey” is created from 7 elm trees and depicts Cuthberts body being carried from Lindisfarne by the monks as they look for a safe place to lay him to rest. (Lawson 1999).

North Euist to Harris via Berneray

Day 3.  Distance 51k Elevation 273

Having left our snug bunkhouse the plan was to head to the ferry terminal and get across to Harris. To get to the ferry terminal the ride is relatively short at 34.5k,with ascent of 245m, with the headwind making for tough cycling in places, exacerbated by the open nature of the landscape.

North Euist is linked to Berneray by yet another causeway as part of the obvious investment in infrastructure and making life easy for both residents and tourists alike.

It was also being enjoyed by the abundance of kite surfers we saw and utilised by the endless wind turbines positioned along the way.

Ferrys to Harris run twice a day on a changing timetable based upon the tides, so worth checking carefully in advance. We arrived over an hour early and having not stopped for breakfast on the cycle over and given the ferry waiting room was just that, we headed beyond the terminal up the hill to the well signed lobster-pot cafe 500m away. The coffee was great and exactly what we needed, the carrot cake equally so…(for me). The weather was outstanding and therefore with the promise of great views we headed back to the ferry to board for the 1 hour trip to Harris.

The straights of Harris were beautifully clear and calm, totally atypical, – or so I’m told. I was very excited about arriving on Harris. Although joined to Lewis it is very separate in terms of identity, profile and people. It is said that the light on Harris is similar to that of Cornwall, hence the abundance of artists and beautiful paintings on display at most stopping points. The other significant thing about Harris as a cyclist is that it is hilly, very hilly in the interior and more so in the north than the south. The hills historically formed a barrier with Lewis to which it is attached. So much so that the two communities traveled to each other by sea rather than land in years gone by. Given the terrain the 1600 or so people who live on Harris tend to do so around the edges of the island. The interior was also used a a substitute for Jupiter in 2001 A Space Odyssey.

However above and beyond all this, Harris is famous for beaches. White sand the most beautiful coves and very unspoilt. The only looming downside are the number of spectacularly positioned houses that have been renovated (beautifully) and now form holiday let’s. Clearly the visitors add to the community but when do you determine the optimum number?

Cycling along the west of Harris is a serene experience although as all coastal routes it is challenging. We had tentatively thought we might get to the top of Harris, however the lure of attractive beaches, sand dunes and one campsite in particular meant we decided to stop around two thirds of the way up. Why wouldn’t you when this sight greets you?

This was a truly memorable evening, not only did we strike lucky in terms of our camp, but we also were less than 3k away from a sensational (more superlatives please) arts and community centre at Horgabost which offered floor to ceiling views, out over the sea to the horizon. The restaurant is clean and the food (scallops and sea bream) to outstanding and it was back downhill most of the way to the campsite.

We woke early but not as early as the surfers who were out in their thickest neoprene and heading to enjoy the waves. An upside of this site is that the facilities though small were excellent and given we had no food with us aside from coffee sachets and a few cliff bars, we were more than delighted to see a breakfast caravan parked up in a lay-by at the entrance to the site. A butty and coffee saw us on our way…

Day 2 Barra to North Uwist

Cycling 79k  Elevation 247m

Having woken up to the campsite in beautiful sunshine – we left the campsite in a torrential shower to work our way around island  (which isn’t too large), heading in the direction of the airport before targeting the 11.10 ferry from Barra to South Uist.  The reason behind going to the airport at Barra was food driven, it comes as a highly recommended cafe, with great scenery and the only airport with whose tag line is “the only scheduled landing on a beach”! Perfect.

With breakfast in mind and having crossed the island, we cycled behind the turn off for the harbour and headed off to the airport. The scenery was incredible, beautiful white sands, the airsocks and warning signs in abundance reminding the casual tourist not to  venture onto the beach if the windsock is flying as aircraft were in the vicinity….Being slightly naive and on makes and models of aircraft and not knowing exactly which type would be brave enough to land on the beach we (I) approached the cafe with caution. In fact it was only when we were on the ferry heading across the Sound of Barra to Eriskay that we were actually fortunate enough to see plan landing in the distance.  I need not have worried – this was nothing someone who lives too close to Heathrow would be used to seeing. However the opportunity to legitimately land on a beach must be on every pilots tick list.

The Cafe by the way is a must visit – not least for the great menu and equally great opportunity to purchase “Barra Memorabilia”.  Having eaten (best veggie sausages ever) we sprinted  back to the harbour turn off for the ferry…..

Watching the ferry load was an exercise in logistical precision….hence we were slightly late in leaving.  The trip itself was a mere 40 mins, we sat up outside on deck and were able to watch colonies of seals basking on small islands in the unusually warm weather as we went by on some of the many islands that populate the Sound of Barra.

The arrival on Eriskay, the the little island beneath South Uist, was spectacular, probably made all the more so by the unseasonal beautiful weather.  Eriskay is tiny and linked to South Euist by a causeway which was opened only in 2001. The island is famous primarily (I don’t think I am doing it a disservice here), for being Bonnie Prince Charlies first landing in Scotland in 1745. It is a mere 2.5 miles by 1.5 miles in length and width hence you are through it and onto the the causeway leading north before you realise it! As in Barra – the riding is easy – undulations aplenty but nothing too  challenging and much to look at.

Each of the islands has its own distinct personality. South Uist  as the second largest island in the outer Hebridean group has plenty going on by comparison to its northern Euist neighbour).  The island has beautiful beaches and cycling along the main road (there aren’t that many route options), there are many historical remains to stop and view. For anyone who has been to Orkney, standing stones and the general landscape are very similar. Like Orkney, the first thing you do notice is a general lack of trees, standing stones and causeways, however unlike Orkney the housing is both innovative and varied, (thatch on stone and clapper boarding), not at all the typical Scottish style of housing you get used to seeing on the mainland. There is very much a community type feel….not altogether unsurprising given it was the subject of a community buy-out in 2006, you can really feel a buzz about the place as people pull together. The key industries, (aside from the arts), are tourism and agriculture and it is most definitely an island worth visiting and of course, made all the more attractive when you do this in great weather>

We stopped for lunch (late) just at the north of the island at a the Borrowdale Hotel where the landlady could not have been friendlier, – something we found all the way round. We also found that in almost in each and every pub there is an art exhibition i.e. paintings on the walls for sale from local artists. Arts are very much at the forefront of the outer Hebrides – what else would you do through the dark cold wet winters……? Of special interest in this establishment were the sparkly silver toilet seats in the ladies – I stopped short of taking a photo for obvious reasons. However worth a look ladies, – sorry boys, I have it on good authority that yours are “regular”seats.

After lunch we continued our trip north, past the army missile test range and across another causeway onto the next island up; – Benbecula. Why this is sandwiched between South and North Euist is bizarre. It is small, industrial and possibly as a slight disservice, not as exciting as the name!Relatively small it is @ 12k across & in length. To be nest we didn’t stop here, given there wast much to see, aside from views to the west but also we were conscious time was pressing on and we needed to get to our overnight accommodation.

Another causeway linked Benbecula to the isle of Norther Euist which for some reason feels slightly less attractive than its southern neighbour. Sure it still has standing stones and burial cairns but it just doesn’t have the same community feel and buzz, – possibly harsh but we were on a mission to get to our accommodation. 

One of the key things we found was that despite having best intentions of camping throughout, it is very hard to find  shops near to a camp site, so moral of the story is buy food when you find a store and take it with you. On this occasion we couldn’t find a  campsite near where we needed to be….so had booked a bunkhouse at Moorcroft  (fantastic site and facility), at the south of the north island. The light that evening, as most evenings in fairness when its not raining in the outer Hebrides was amazing……as an added bonus we need up with a bunkhouse to ourselves. The views from the bunkhouse, especially in the morning,  were again something special.  The light in the Hebrides is really spectacular and seems to highlight the natural colours of the scenery.

Day done, we headed for food and a substantial sleep!