Having left Mrs Ross’s very fine establishment after a beautifully prepared breakfast, we set off on our morning trip to Ullapool, our lunch destination. The road was initally flat, just as the sun was initially out (!), However nothing lasts for ever, or even for a few minutes in the north of Scotland and no sooner had we passed the snow gates and started our 7 mile ascent to the summit than the weather began to close in. Fuelled by good cooking we persevered and hit the summit just as the horizontal rain was making its presence felt. We determined that the only thing to do was embrace the situation and take some photos!
However, its fair to say we didn’t embrace the situation quite as much as the Porshe driver we saw heading to the summit with roof down, a leather interior and windscreen wipers flat out….Draw your own conclusions! After much mirth (at his expense) and merriment at being wet again and after a 2 mile slog across the summit we started our descent, and of course, the sun came out. The views into Ullapool were fantastic as we cycled along the side of the Loch towards lunch.
Short sharp inclines and fabulous views up and down the loch were the nature of the last half hour before lunch. It was very impressive to see the height we had gained and subsequently lost, both offering more great photo opportunities before we arrived at a rather cool lunch stop facing the harbour in Ullapool, The Frigate Cafe offering very good food and “more than” good coffee was much needed. Interestingly it also seemed to be the destination of choice for a large group of French Hells Angels who seemed to have a penchant for traditional English baking and ginger beer!
After a break that passed all to quickly we headed off in the direction of Lochinver. If the mornings 20 miles had been relatively challenging the 40 miles that followed were brutal, although we were forwarned by a very rosy cheeked old lady who suddenly appeared, like an apparition, at the bottom of the first hill out of Ullapool. ” Its a wee bit hilly out there” she said wisely, then she bent down behind the wall she had just appeared from. “Yes” we said, – no other response really.. I changed down gear, my chain dropped off and the lady dissappeared!
The ride out to Lochinver is beautiful, The ups were doable with some digging in and the downs delightful. Best of all were the views looking back towards the hills and mountains sureounding Ullapool.
The road out to Lochinver is deceptively long and the last 12 miles heading towards the town are populated by some beautiful ruins alongside the loch which we stopped to check out, followed by an endlessly undulating tarmac strip. 
You got to the top of each hill thinking surely we must be here, sadly not….. Just as we were nearing the end of our energy levels we found ourselves descending into Lochinver and a beautiful harbour full of sunshine to greet us. Time for a beverage. Now there is a thought that would perk up thw moat tieed of cyclist!
There and Back: 